Comparisons · 4 min read · Updated 6 November 2026
Artex patterns explained: swirl, stipple, comb and what they mean
Common patterns
| Pattern | What it looks like | Typical depth |
|---|---|---|
| Swirl | Overlapping circular arcs, often in rows | Medium to deep |
| Stipple | Small peaks all over, like a rough sponge | Shallow to medium, sometimes sharp |
| Comb or fan | Fan or shell shapes made with a comb | Medium |
| Bark | Long streaks, like tree bark | Medium to deep |
| Broken leather or knife finish | Flattened patches with raised edges | Shallow to medium |
| Basket weave or criss-cross | Repeating crossed lines | Medium |
| Tudor rose or circular stamps | Repeated stamped motifs | Medium |
Does the pattern tell you if there is asbestos?
No. Every common pattern was produced with coatings that did and did not contain asbestos. The pattern was created by the tool used to apply or texture the coating, not by the product itself. The age of the coating is a far better indicator: coatings applied before the mid-1980s are the most likely to contain asbestos, and anything applied before 2000 should be tested before it is disturbed.
Two neighbouring houses with the same swirl pattern can give different test results.
How pattern affects skimming
Before skimming, any sharp peaks are knocked back or carefully scraped down, the surface is sealed and bonded, and then plaster is applied to fill the texture and leave a flat finish. Deeper patterns need more preparation, more plaster and sometimes an extra coat to get completely flat.
- Shallow stipple: often skimmed in a standard two-coat finish
- Medium swirl or comb: may need a base coat to fill the pattern before finishing
- Deep swirl or bark: may need extra filling or a bonding coat, adding time
- Very uneven or heavily patched ceilings: overboarding may be quicker and flatter
How pattern affects removal
Removal usually involves softening the coating with steam or a gel stripper and scraping it off. Thicker, deeper patterns contain more material, so they take longer to soften and strip, and they produce more waste. If the coating contains asbestos, more material means more hazardous waste and more careful handling. This is one reason skimming or overboarding is usually preferred for heavy patterns.
Heavy textures can also hide damage underneath, such as cracked boards or old repairs, which only become visible once the coating is stripped and then need making good before the surface is ready.
Walls versus ceilings
Textured coatings on walls are often a different pattern from the ceiling in the same room, and they may have been applied at a different time. Wall textures are more exposed to knocks and wear, so check them for damage. Walls can be skimmed or stripped in the same way as ceilings, but because they are easier to reach, the labour is sometimes quicker per square metre.
Wall coatings in stairwells and landings are often the most awkward to reach, because the height of the stairwell means a platform or staging is needed, which adds to the time and cost.
Describing your ceiling for a quote
- Name the pattern if you can, or describe what it looks like
- Say roughly how deep the peaks are, for example under 5mm, 5mm to 10mm or deeper
- Mention cracks, stains, patched areas or loose sections
- Give the room sizes and ceiling heights
- Say when the coating was likely applied and whether it has been tested
- Send clear photos, including one taken from the side with a light shining across
A photo taken with a torch held flat against the ceiling shows the depth of the pattern far better than a straight-on photo, which tends to flatten it.
Dating your coating
Knowing roughly when a coating was applied helps more than knowing the pattern. Look for clues such as the age of the house, the date of the last major renovation, old paperwork or photos, and whether the coating extends into extensions or loft conversions of a known date.
- House built after 2000 and never re-coated: asbestos very unlikely
- Coating applied in the 1990s: lower likelihood, but test before disturbing
- Coating applied before the mid-1980s: most likely period for asbestos
- Unknown date: treat as possibly containing asbestos until tested
Previous owners, neighbours with similar houses and estate agent records can sometimes help date a coating, but a lab test is the only reliable answer.
Frequently asked questions
Which Artex pattern is the hardest to skim?
Deep swirl and bark patterns are usually the hardest, because the peaks are high and the hollows deep. They need careful preparation without sanding, a bonding coat and sometimes extra plaster to fill the texture before the finishing coats. Shallow stipple is usually quicker, but sharp stipple peaks still need knocking back so they do not show through the new plaster.
Can you match an Artex pattern after a repair?
Matching a pattern exactly is very difficult, because each ceiling was textured by hand and has aged differently. Small repairs often stand out once painted. If you want to keep the textured look, a skilled plasterer may get close, but most people with a damaged area choose to skim the whole ceiling instead, which gives a consistent smooth finish.
Is a stipple ceiling the same as Artex?
Stipple is a pattern, and Artex is a brand name that became the everyday word for textured ceiling coatings in general. A stippled ceiling may have been made with Artex or a similar product. The same advice applies either way: test before disturbing any coating applied before 2000, and skimming is usually the most practical way to get a smooth finish.
Artex patterns swirl stipple textured ceilings
Related services
We cover 250 towns and cities, including Cambridge, Peterborough, Bristol, Bath, Birmingham, Coventry.
